Chinese Restaurant-Style Fried Rice

1. Mix the sauce. In a small bowl, stir together soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, white pepper, and sugar (if using). Set aside so you are not scrambling mid-sizzle.
2. Scramble the eggs. Heat a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 teaspoon oil, then pour in the eggs. Stir just until softly set, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer to a plate.
3. Sauté aromatics. Add 1 tablespoon oil to the hot pan. Add onion and cook 1 to 2 minutes until it starts to soften. Add garlic and cook 15 seconds, just until fragrant. If using Shaoxing wine, drizzle it around the edges of the pan and let it bubble and cook off for about 10 seconds.
4. Stir-fry the veggies. Add peas and carrots. Cook 1 to 2 minutes until bright and hot.
5. Add the rice and fry it. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons oil, then add the cold rice. Use your spatula to break up clumps. Spread rice into an even layer and let it sit for 30 to 45 seconds, or until you hear steady sizzling and see light browning (adjust the time based on your stove). Stir, then repeat once more. This is where the toasty bits happen, so resist constant stirring. If your pan is not wide enough to keep the rice in a thin layer, cook in two batches so it fries instead of steams.
6. Season and finish. Drizzle the sauce around the edges of the pan (it sizzles and smells better that way), then toss well to coat. Add scallions and the scrambled eggs. If using cooked protein, add it now and toss until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes.
7. Taste and adjust. Taste first, then add a pinch of salt only if needed (soy sauce brands vary). If using butter, turn off the heat and stir it in right before serving for extra gloss and richness. Finish with extra scallions. Serve hot.

Quick tip: If the rice looks dry, splash in 1 to 2 teaspoons water and toss. If it looks wet, crank the heat and spread it out so moisture can cook off.