Chinese Soup Dumplings (Xiaolongbao)

Make the aspic broth (day ahead recommended)

1. Simmer the broth: In a small saucepan, combine chicken broth, water, pork bones (if using), ginger, scallions, Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, sugar, and salt. Bring to a simmer, then lower heat and gently simmer 15 to 20 minutes. Skim any foam. (The bones are optional for flavor. The gelatin powder is what sets the aspic.)

2. Strain: Strain into a bowl or measuring cup. You want about 2 1/2 to 3 cups of liquid. Add a splash of water if you are short.

3. Add gelatin (and adjust if needed): While the liquid is hot but not violently boiling, whisk in gelatin until fully dissolved. Taste and adjust salt. Remember: this seasons the soup inside the dumpling. If your liquid amount is outside the 2 1/2 to 3 cup range, adjust gelatin up or down a bit so it sets firmly enough to cube.

4. Chill until set: Pour into a shallow dish and refrigerate at least 4 hours, ideally overnight, until firm like Jell-O.

5. Cube it: Cut the aspic into small 1/4 inch cubes. Keep cold.

Make wrapper dough (or prep store-bought)

Homemade wrappers

1. Mix: In a bowl, combine flour and salt. Pour in the warm water and stir with chopsticks or a fork until shaggy.

2. Knead: When cool enough to handle, knead 6 to 8 minutes until smooth. If dry, add 1 tbsp water at a time. Cover and rest 30 minutes.

3. Portion: Roll dough into a log and cut into 24 pieces. Keep pieces covered.

4. Roll: Roll each piece into a 3.5 to 4 inch circle, slightly thicker in the center and thinner at the edges. Dust lightly with flour as needed.

Store-bought wrappers

Keep wrappers covered with a barely damp towel. Before filling, roll each wrapper once or twice to thin the outer edge. That one tweak makes pleating way easier. (If your wrappers are thick, keep the filling amount modest. Thick wrappers can handle soup, but they do not love being overstuffed.)

Make the pork filling

1. Mix flavor base: In a bowl, combine ground pork, scallions, ginger, soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sesame oil, sugar, salt, and pepper.

2. Stir until sticky: Mix vigorously with chopsticks or a spoon for 1 to 2 minutes. The mixture should look cohesive and slightly tacky.

3. Adjust texture: If it feels stiff, mix in 1 to 2 tbsp water or chilled broth. You want it scoopable, not wet.

4. Fold in aspic: Gently fold in the cold aspic cubes. Keep the bowl chilled if your kitchen is warm. (If the aspic starts melting, pop the filling in the fridge for 10 minutes. Your future dumplings will thank you.)

Assemble and pleat

1. Set up: Work with 4 to 6 wrappers at a time, keeping the rest covered. Place a small bowl of water nearby (this is your glue for sealing).

2. Fill: Place about 1 heaping tablespoon of filling in the center. Do not overfill or you will fight the pleats.

3. Wet the edge (especially for store-bought): Dip your finger in water and lightly moisten the outer rim of the wrapper. You want it tacky, not soaked.

4. Pleat: Hold the dumpling in one hand. With the other hand, make small pleats around the edge, moving in one direction, and gently press each new pleat onto the previous one.

5. Seal: When you reach the end, twist and pinch the top closed. The top should be fully sealed, with no open “chimney.”

6. Place on lined tray: Set finished dumplings on parchment, lightly dusted with flour, or a greased plate. Keep them covered while you work.

Pleating tip: Your goal is a tight seal and a dumpling that sits upright. Pretty pleats are a bonus, not rent.

Steam the dumplings

1. Prep steamer: Line your steamer with parchment (poke holes and lightly oil if you are nervous about sticking) or napa cabbage leaves (rinse, pat dry, and lay in a single layer). Lightly oil if needed.

2. Bring water to a lively simmer: Fill a wok or pot with water so it sits below the steamer base. Bring to a lively simmer.

3. Steam: Arrange dumplings with a little space between them. Cover and steam 8 to 10 minutes for fresh dumplings, 10 to 14 minutes for frozen. Try not to peek constantly because it drops the heat and can stretch the cook time.

4. Know when they are done: The wrappers will look slightly more translucent and the dumplings will puff a bit. If you want to be extra sure, the pork should hit 160°F (71°C) in the center.

5. Serve carefully: Let them sit 1 minute, then transfer with a thin spatula. They are hot and full of soup.

Make the ginger vinegar dip

1. Stir vinegar and ginger together. Add sugar if you like a softer edge. Add chili oil if you like a little chaos.

How to eat xiaolongbao

1. Place a dumpling on a spoon.

2. Nibble a small hole near the top to release steam.

3. Sip the broth, then dip and finish the dumpling.

Realistic timing

• Day ahead: Make aspic and chill overnight. You can also mix the pork filling (without aspic) and refrigerate.
• Dumpling day: Cube aspic, fold into filling, assemble dumplings, steam and eat. If you are new to pleating, plan 60 to 90 minutes to fold 24 dumplings.
• Party move: Assemble and freeze the day before. Steam from frozen as needed.