Coleslaw is one of those sides that should be simple, but somehow it ends up either bland, too sweet, or watery enough to turn your plate into a tiny swamp. This is the version I make when I want the crunch to stay loud, the dressing to taste bright, and the whole thing to feel like it belongs next to anything with grill marks.
Here is the deal: we are building a tangy, creamy dressing that clings, salting the cabbage just enough to keep it crisp, and giving it a short chill so the flavors can actually show up. It is relaxed cooking with a little strategy, which is my favorite kind.

