Classic Creamy Macaroni and Cheese

Boil the pasta. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it generously (about 1 to 2 tablespoons kosher salt). Cook the macaroni until just al dente (usually 1 minute less than the box). Drain and set aside. Optional but smart: reserve 1/2 cup pasta water in case you want to loosen the sauce later.

Make the roux. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes until it smells lightly nutty and looks like pale sand.

Whisk in the dairy. Slowly pour in the milk while whisking to avoid lumps. Add the cream (if using). Simmer, whisking often, for 3 to 7 minutes until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Season the sauce. Whisk in pepper, mustard powder, and any optional paprika, cayenne, or garlic. Add a pinch of salt for now. Wait to do the final salt adjustment until after the cheese is melted in, since cheeses vary a lot in saltiness.

Melt in the cheese. Turn the heat to low or remove the pan from the burner. Add cheddar, Jack or fontina, and Parmesan in handfuls, stirring until melted and smooth before adding more.

Taste and adjust. Now taste the sauce and add salt as needed. If it is thicker than you want, loosen with a splash of warm milk or a little reserved pasta water until it looks glossy and pourable.

Combine and finish. Add the drained macaroni and stir until every noodle is coated. Serve immediately for maximum creaminess.

Optional crisp top (quick broil): Mix panko with melted butter. Sprinkle over the mac (in an oven-safe dish) and broil 1 to 3 minutes until golden. Watch closely.