Classic Crème Brûlée

1. Preheat and set up the water bath. Heat oven to 325°F. Set a rack in the middle of the oven. Set 6 ramekins in a large roasting pan. Optional but helpful: place a folded kitchen towel in the bottom of the pan so the ramekins do not slide. Put a kettle of water on to heat until near-boiling.
2. Warm the cream with vanilla. In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the heavy cream, 1/2 cup sugar, and salt. Stir until the sugar dissolves. If using a vanilla bean, split it, scrape the seeds into the pot, and add the pod too. If using espresso powder, whisk it in here. Heat until the cream is steaming and tiny bubbles appear at the edges. Do not boil. Remove from heat and let steep 10 minutes. If using vanilla extract instead, wait to add it in Step 4.
3. Whisk yolks gently. In a bowl, whisk egg yolks just until smooth. You are not trying to whip air into them.
4. Temper the yolks. Slowly drizzle about 1/2 cup of the warm cream into the yolks while whisking constantly. Then pour the yolk mixture back into the saucepan, whisking to combine. If using vanilla extract, whisk it in now. Do not cook the mixture further, you are just combining it.
5. Strain for silk. Pour the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a large measuring cup or bowl with a spout. (This catches any bits of egg and the vanilla pod.) Skim off surface foam if you see a lot of bubbles.
6. Fill ramekins. Divide the custard evenly among ramekins.
7. Add hot water. Pull the oven rack out slightly and set the roasting pan on it. Carefully pour near-boiling water into the roasting pan until it comes about halfway up the sides of the ramekins.
8. Bake gently. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, until the edges are set and the centers still wobble slightly when you nudge the pan. Start checking at 30 minutes.
9. Cool, then chill. Carefully remove ramekins from the water bath and cool at room temp until no longer steaming, about 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.
10. Brûlée the sugar (torch method). Right before serving, sprinkle 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar evenly over each custard. Torch in small circles until the sugar melts, turns amber, and looks glossy. Let sit 1 to 2 minutes to harden.
11. No torch? Use the broiler. Chill custards thoroughly. Set oven to broil and place a rack close to the top, about 2 to 4 inches from the element. Put ramekins on a cold, broiler-safe baking sheet. Add sugar in a thin, even layer. Broil 30 seconds to 3 minutes, watching constantly and rotating the tray as needed. As soon as the sugar is melted and amber, remove. Let the crust harden for 1 to 2 minutes, then serve.

Make-ahead plan

• 1 to 3 days ahead: Bake custards, cool, cover, and refrigerate.
• Right before serving: Add sugar and caramelize.