Fluffy and Creamy Mashed Potatoes

Start the potatoes. Cut the potatoes into evenly sized chunks so they cook at the same pace. Add them to a large pot and cover with cold water by about 1 inch. Add 2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (this is a moderately salted pot, not ocean-level). Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer.

Cook until tender. Simmer 15 to 20 minutes, until a fork slides in with no resistance and a piece breaks apart easily when you pinch it with the fork. The edges should look a little craggy.

Drain and dry. Drain in a colander, then return the potatoes to the pot off heat first. Set the pot over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, shaking gently, to steam off excess moisture. This is the fluff step. Do not skip it.

Warm the butter and dairy. While the potatoes dry, warm the milk or cream with the butter in a small saucepan over low heat until the butter melts. Do not boil. If using garlic, warm a halved clove in the mixture for a gentle flavor, then remove it.

Mash, gently. Remove the pot from heat. Mash the potatoes with a masher, or run them through a ricer back into the pot for ultra smooth results.

Make them creamy. Pour in about half of the warm butter-dairy mixture and fold it in with a spatula or wooden spoon. Add more of the warm butter-dairy mixture gradually until they are creamy and fluffy (potato moisture varies, so trust your eyes). If using sour cream or crème fraîche, fold it in now.

Season and serve. Taste and add more salt and black pepper as needed. Salting the water helps season the potatoes throughout, but the final adjustment is where the magic lands. Top with an extra pat of butter and sprinkle with chives or parsley if you are feeling fancy and functional.

Texture tip: If they ever feel too thick, add a splash more warm milk or cream. If they feel too loose, let them sit for a minute. They thicken as they cool.