Homemade Spicy Kimchi

1. Salt the cabbage (quick wet brine). Put the chopped napa cabbage in a large bowl. Sprinkle the salt over it, then toss and massage for 2 to 3 minutes until it starts to soften and look a little glossy. Add enough cold water to just barely cover the cabbage (the salt will dissolve and make a brine). Set a plate on top to keep it mostly submerged and let it sit 1 to 2 hours, tossing once or twice.
2. Rinse and drain. Drain the cabbage in a colander. Rinse with cold water 2 to 3 times to remove excess salt. Squeeze gently to remove water, then let it drain for 5 to 10 minutes. You want it damp, not dripping. Taste a piece. It should be seasoned but not aggressively salty.
3. Make the paste. In a small bowl, mix gochugaru, garlic, ginger, fish sauce (or soy sauce), sugar, rice vinegar (if using), and water. Stir into a thick, spreadable paste. If it is too stiff, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water. If you want it hotter, add a bit more gochugaru. Optional upgrade: Use grated Asian pear or apple instead of the water and sugar for a slightly fruitier, more traditional vibe.
4. Combine. Add the drained cabbage back to the large bowl. Add radish and scallions. Put on gloves if using, then add the paste and massage it into everything until the cabbage is evenly coated and vividly red.
5. Pack the jars (clean tools). Pack the kimchi tightly into clean jars, pressing down firmly so liquid rises and the vegetables stay mostly under their own brine. Leave at least 1 inch of headspace because it will bubble as it ferments. If you want extra insurance against surface drying, press a small piece of parchment or plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the kimchi before closing the jar.
6. Ferment. Close the lid loosely or “burp” the jar daily (back the ring off slightly if using a standard canning jar). Set the jar on a small plate or in a bowl to catch any bubbly overflow. Leave at room temperature out of direct sunlight for 24 to 48 hours in a warm kitchen, or up to 2 to 5 days in a cooler kitchen. Press the kimchi down once a day to keep it under liquid. Start checking at 24 hours. It should smell pleasantly tangy and taste bright, sometimes with a little fizz.
7. Refrigerate. Tighten the lid and move the jar to the fridge. It is good immediately, but the flavor gets better after a few more days.

Matt’s tip: If you are nervous, ferment for 24 hours, then refrigerate. You will still get great flavor, and the fridge will keep it from racing into super-sour territory too fast.