Japanese Soufflé Pancakes

1. Set up your station. Separate the eggs, placing whites in a clean, dry bowl. Any yolk or grease can prevent the whites from whipping properly. If using ring molds, lightly oil the inside and set aside.
2. Mix the yolk batter. In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks with 1 tbsp sugar until slightly lighter. Whisk in vanilla and milk. Sift in flour, baking powder, and salt, then whisk until smooth. The batter will be thick.
3. Whip the meringue. With a hand or stand mixer, beat egg whites on medium until foamy. Add cream of tartar if using. Slowly add the remaining 1 tbsp sugar and beat to glossy medium-stiff peaks. You want peaks that stand up with just a slight bend at the tip.
4. Fold gently, keep the air. Add one-third of the meringue to the yolk batter and fold to lighten. Add the remaining meringue in two additions, folding with a spatula until you don't see streaks. Stop as soon as it's combined. Overfolding is the enemy.
5. Preheat the pan low and slow. Heat a nonstick skillet over low (or low to medium-low) for 2 to 3 minutes. Add a little oil and a tiny bit of butter if you want. Wipe to a thin sheen.
6. Portion and build height. Place ring molds on the pan if using. Spoon batter into each mold to about 1 to 1.25 inches high (roughly halfway for most 1.5 to 2 inch rings). If not using molds, spoon tall mounds of batter (about 1/3 cup each), then add a small extra spoonful on top to build height.
7. Cover and steam. Add 1 tbsp water to an empty spot in the pan, then immediately cover with a lid. Cook for 6 to 7 minutes on low. The sides should start to set and the tops should look more matte than glossy. If your rings are tall or the pancakes look stable, you can remove the rings here before flipping.
8. Flip carefully. Remove lid. If the molds are still on, run a thin spatula around the inside if needed. Flip each pancake gently in one confident motion.
9. Finish cooking. Add the remaining 1 tbsp water to the pan and cover again. Cook covered for 5 to 6 minutes more, still on low. They should feel springy and set. If they're browning too fast, lower the heat.
10. Serve immediately. Transfer to plates, stack them up, and top with berries, whipped cream, powdered sugar, and maple syrup. Eat while they're tall and warm.

Batch note: In a typical 10 to 12 inch skillet, you'll usually cook 2 to 3 pancakes at a time. Total cook time assumes about two batches.

Heat tip: If your first batch is too dark, your pan is too hot. Pull it off the burner for 1 minute, lower the heat, and continue. Soufflé pancakes reward calm energy.