Spiced Fries: Zippy and Fresh

Cut the potatoes. Slice into fries about 1/4 to 1/3 inch thick. Try to keep them similar in size so they cook evenly.

Soak for better crisp. Add the cut potatoes to a large bowl and cover with cold water. Soak for 20 to 30 minutes.

While they soak, heat the oven and prep the pans. Place racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 450°F. Line two sheet pans with parchment if you want easy cleanup.

Drain and dry thoroughly. Drain the potatoes, rinse quickly, then dry thoroughly with a towel. No shortcuts here. Water is the enemy of crisp edges.

Season and coat. In a large bowl, toss the dry potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle over the cornstarch, kosher salt, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, and cayenne (if using). Toss until every fry looks lightly coated and not powdery.

Spread out. Divide fries between the two pans in a single layer. Give them space. Crowding makes steamed fries, and no one asked for those.

Bake. Bake for 15 minutes, then flip the fries and rotate the pans (top to bottom, front to back). Bake another 12 to 18 minutes until deeply golden with crisp edges. If you want extra color, go another 2 to 4 minutes, keeping an eye on them.

Make it zippy. While the fries bake, mix lemon zest, lemon juice, parsley, and dill or cilantro in a bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Toss and taste. Transfer hot fries to a big bowl. Add the lemon herb mix and toss quickly. Taste and adjust with more salt, extra lemon juice, or a pinch more cayenne.

Serve immediately. These are at their peak right now. Bring the dipping sauce and do not be shy.