1) Mix the dough
In a large bowl, whisk together the starter, warm water, honey, and salt until mostly smooth. Add the bread flour and mix until you have a shaggy, stiff dough.
Knead by hand on an unfloured counter for 8 to 10 minutes, or knead in a stand mixer on low for 6 to 8 minutes. You want a smooth, tight dough that feels firm and elastic. If it sticks, lightly dampen your hands (and the counter) instead of adding flour. Bagel dough is supposed to be a little bossy.
2) Bulk ferment
Cover and let the dough rise at room temperature for about 3 to 5 hours, or until it looks slightly puffed and smoother. Timing depends on your kitchen. In a cooler space (around 70°F), you will be closer to the longer end. In a warm kitchen, it can move faster. Focus on the look and feel, not the clock.
3) Shape the bagels
Divide into 8 pieces (about 110 to 115 g each). Roll each into a tight ball. Poke a hole through the center, then gently stretch until the center hole is about 2 inches across (the overall bagel will be roughly 4 to 5 inches). The dough will try to shrink back, so go a little wider than you think.
Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover, and let rest 20 minutes.
4) Cold proof overnight
Cover the sheet tightly and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours. This builds flavor and makes the dough easier to handle.
5) Preheat and prep
The next morning, preheat the oven to 425°F.
Set out a second sheet of parchment on a baking sheet, or replace the parchment from the fridge if it looks damp or wrinkled. You want a nice dry landing zone after boiling.
Set a large pot of water to a gentle boil. Stir in the barley malt syrup (or honey) and baking soda.
6) Float test, then boil
Drop one bagel into the water. If it floats within about 10 to 30 seconds, you are ready to boil. If it sinks and stays down, let the tray sit at room temperature for 20 to 40 minutes and try again.
Boil 2 to 3 bagels at a time. Boil for 30 seconds per side for a thinner crust, or 45 to 60 seconds per side for extra chew. Lift with a slotted spoon and let drip for a moment, then place on the prepared baking sheet.
7) Bake
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through, until deeply golden brown. They should feel light for their size and set on the outside. If you like numbers, the center will be around 200 to 205°F.
8) Make the sweet and spicy finish
While the bagels bake, stir together honey, hot sauce, vinegar (or lime), and half of the chili flakes. In a small bowl, mix sugar with flaky salt (and smoked paprika if using), then stir in the remaining chili flakes. Now it is truly chili sugar, and it brings the crunch.
9) Glaze and top
When the bagels come out of the oven, cool 5 minutes. Brush lightly with the honey-chili glaze, then sprinkle with the chili sugar. You may not need every last drop of glaze, and that is a good thing. Too much can turn glossy into soggy.
Let cool on a wire rack at least 20 minutes before slicing. Yes, waiting is annoying. It is also how you keep the interior from getting gummy.
