Cheese Tortellini

Boil the tortellini. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the salt (this amount is for about 4 to 6 quarts of water), then add the tortellini. Cook according to package directions until tender. They often float when close to done, but taste one to be sure. Before draining, reserve about 1/2 cup pasta water (you will start with 1/4 cup in the sauce).

Start the sauce. While the tortellini cooks, melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, just until fragrant and gently sizzling.

Build quick tomato flavor. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, scraping it around the pan so it darkens slightly.

Make it silky. Pour in crushed tomatoes and simmer for 2 to 5 minutes, or until the sauce smells less raw and starts to thicken slightly. (If you use tomato sauce, it may need the longer end of that range to thicken.) Reduce heat to low and stir in the cream, Italian seasoning, black pepper, and red pepper flakes if using.

Wilt the spinach. Add spinach by the handful, stirring until it wilts, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Toss and finish. Add drained tortellini to the skillet. Add 1/4 cup reserved pasta water and toss gently for 1 to 2 minutes so the sauce clings. Add a splash more pasta water as needed.

Cheese it up. Turn off the heat. Stir in Parmesan. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Keep in mind the tortellini filling and Parmesan both bring salt, so taste first before adding more.

Serve. Spoon into bowls and top with extra Parmesan and herbs if you want. I also like a tiny pinch of red pepper flakes on mine for a little sparkle.