Chewy Homemade Bagels

1. Mix the dough. In a stand mixer bowl (or a large mixing bowl), combine bread flour, salt, and instant yeast. Stir the malt syrup into the warm water first (it mixes easier), then add it to the bowl. Mix until a shaggy dough forms.
2. Knead until smooth and firm. Knead with a dough hook on medium-low for 7 to 9 minutes, or by hand for 10 to 12 minutes, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and quite firm. If it feels sticky, dust with a little flour. You want a tight dough, not a squishy one.
3. First rise. Form dough into a ball, place in a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rise at room temperature for 60 to 75 minutes, until puffy and noticeably expanded (it might not fully double with a stiff bagel dough).
4. Shape. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Divide dough into 8 equal pieces (a scale helps). Roll each into a tight ball, then poke a hole through the center with your thumb and gently stretch to about a 1 1/2 to 2 inch hole. Place on the sheet with space between bagels.
5. Short proof plus preheat. Cover and let rest 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 425 F and bring your pot of water to a gentle boil.
6. Prepare the boiling bath. Once the water is at a gentle boil, carefully stir in malt syrup, baking soda, and salt. Heads up: baking soda can foam, so use a roomy pot and do not crank the heat like you are mad at it.
7. Boil. Boil bagels 2 to 3 at a time, 45 seconds per side for chewy bagels (60 seconds per side for extra chewy). Flip with a slotted spoon. Let excess water drip off, then place back on the parchment.
8. Top immediately. While each bagel is still wet (right after it comes out of the water), sprinkle toppings generously. If you wait until all batches are boiled, the early ones can dry out and the seeds will slide off like they have somewhere better to be.
9. Bake. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, rotating the pan halfway, until deeply golden brown. Bonus doneness cue: they should sound a bit hollow when tapped, or read about 200 to 210 F in the center if you like thermometers and certainty. Cool at least 15 minutes before slicing. Hot bagels smell like a trap, but slicing too early can make the interior gummy.
10. Optional overnight method. After shaping, cover and refrigerate 8 to 18 hours. The next day, boil straight from the fridge and bake as directed. This boosts flavor and makes you look like a person with a plan.

Note on everything seasoning: If your blend is heavy on dried onion or garlic and tends to scorch, bake on the middle rack and keep an eye on the last few minutes. You can also add those toppings after flipping the bagels halfway through baking if your oven runs hot.