Chicken Biryani Recipe

1. Marinate the chicken. In a bowl, mix yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, salt, chili powder, cumin, coriander, turmeric, and lemon juice. Add chicken and coat well. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes, or up to overnight for deeper flavor.
2. Soak the rice. Rinse basmati until the water runs mostly clear. Soak in water for 20 to 30 minutes, then drain.
3. Start the rice water early. While you cook the onions and chicken, set a large pot of water on the stove for the rice. You want it at a boil and ready when you are.
4. Start the onions. In a heavy-bottom pot over medium heat, melt 3 tablespoons ghee. Add sliced onions and cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown and lightly crisp at the edges, 15 to 25 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed so they do not scorch. Remove about 1/3 of the onions for topping and set aside. (You will end up with roughly 1 cup fried onions total, give or take.)
5. Build the masala. To the pot with remaining onions, add green chiles (if using) and fennel seeds (if using) and cook 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and cook until jammy and the oil starts to separate, 6 to 10 minutes.
6. Cook the chicken. Add the marinated chicken to the pot. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, turning pieces, until the chicken is mostly cooked on the outside and the masala is thick and glossy. You want a saucy base, not soup.
   
   If it looks too wet, cook a few minutes longer uncovered. If it looks too dry, splash in 2 to 4 tablespoons water. Stir in half the cilantro and half the mint. Stir in the garam masala and cook 30 seconds to wake it up. Reduce heat to low and keep the masala at a gentle simmer while you finish the rice.
7. Par-cook the rice. Bring the rice water to a boil (aim for about 4 to 5 quarts water so the salt level makes sense). Add salt, bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon. Add drained rice and boil until the grains are about 70 percent cooked, 5 to 7 minutes. Texture cue: the grain should break with pressure, but still have a slightly chalky center. Drain well.
8. Prep saffron (optional). Steep saffron in warm milk or water for 5 minutes. If using kewra water or rose water, stir a few drops into the saffron liquid.
9. Layer the biryani. Make sure the chicken masala is still hot and gently bubbling. Over the chicken masala, scatter half the par-cooked rice. Top with some reserved fried onions, remaining cilantro and mint. Add the rest of the rice. Drizzle saffron milk over the top, plus the remaining 1 tablespoon ghee.
10. Dum cook (steam-finish). Cover the pot with a tight lid. If your lid is not snug, place foil between pot and lid to seal. Cook on very low heat for 20 to 25 minutes. Turn off heat and rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Chicken should reach 165°F / 74°C in the thickest part, and the juices should run clear.
11. Fluff and serve. Use a spoon to gently lift from the bottom so you get chicken, masala, and rice in each scoop. Serve hot with raita, salad, or a squeeze of lemon.

Matt’s tiny but mighty tips

• Brown the onions properly: pale onions make pale biryani. Take them to deep golden.
• Do not overboil the rice: if it is fully cooked before dum, it will go soft and clumpy at the end.
• Low heat means low: if you smell scorching, your burner is too hot. Move the pot or use a diffuser.
• If the rice needs a little more time: add 1 to 2 tablespoons water, reseal, and give it 5 to 10 more minutes on the lowest heat.