Crispy Calamari With Lemon Garlic Aioli

1) Make the aioli

1. In a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, grated garlic, lemon juice, lemon zest, Dijon, salt, and pepper.
2. Cover and refrigerate while you cook. It gets better as it sits.

2) Prep and soak the squid

1. Pat the squid very dry with paper towels. Drier squid means less splatter and a crispier crust.
2. Add squid to a bowl with buttermilk and toss. Let it soak for 10 to 15 minutes at cool room temperature while you heat the oil (or pop it in the fridge if your kitchen runs warm).
3. Tip: If your rings are very thick, keep them in one batch and tentacles in another so everything finishes at the same time.

3) Heat the oil

1. Set a wire rack over a sheet pan for draining.
2. Pour oil into a heavy pot so it reaches 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep, and make sure the pot is not filled more than halfway.
3. Heat to 350°F. Keep the thermometer in there, this is the whole game.
4. Quick safety note: Use a long-handled spider or slotted spoon, and fry in small batches to prevent oil from bubbling up too aggressively.

4) Dredge

1. In a wide, shallow bowl or pie plate, combine flour, cornstarch, salt, smoked paprika, garlic powder, pepper, and cayenne (if using).
2. Working in handfuls, lift squid from the buttermilk, let excess drip off for a few seconds, then toss in the dredge until coated.
3. Shake off extra coating. Too much dry mix clinging on is how you get gummy patches.

5) Fry in small batches

1. Fry a small batch at a time so the oil temperature does not crash. Cook for 60 to 120 seconds, turning a few pieces once, until light golden with crisp edges. (Thin rings usually land closer to 60 to 90 seconds.)
2. Transfer to the rack with a spider or slotted spoon. Immediately season with a pinch of salt.
3. Bring oil back to 350°F between batches.

6) Serve

1. Pile calamari onto a platter with lemon wedges and (optional) parsley.
2. Serve hot with the lemon garlic aioli on the side.