Koshary

Start the lentils. Add lentils and water to a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a steady simmer and cook until tender but not mushy, 18 to 25 minutes. Drain off any excess water so the lentils are tender but not soupy. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon cumin. Set aside.

Cook the rice. In a saucepan, combine rinsed rice, water or low-sodium broth, oil or butter, and 1/2 teaspoon salt (use a little less if your broth is salty). Bring to a boil, cover, then reduce heat to low and cook 15 minutes. Turn off heat and rest covered 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork.

Make the garlic vinegar sauce. In a small bowl or jar, stir together vinegar, water, garlic, cumin, and salt. Let it sit while you finish everything else. It gets better as it hangs out.

Fry the onions. Toss sliced onions with 1 teaspoon salt. If using flour, sprinkle it on and toss to lightly coat. Heat about 1 inch of neutral oil in a small saucepan or deep skillet over medium-high heat until it reaches about 350°F (175°C), or until a small onion slice sizzles immediately. Fry onions in batches so you do not overcrowd the pan. Stir often and watch closely as they color. Pull them when they are a deep golden brown (they keep browning for a minute after you scoop them out), usually 6 to 10 minutes per batch depending on thickness and oil temperature. Transfer to a paper towel lined plate or sheet pan and immediately season with a pinch of salt. They will crisp more as they cool.

Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until just al dente, then drain. (If you are breaking spaghetti, aim for short pieces so it eats like a bowl, not a twirl.)

Make the tomato sauce. In a skillet over medium heat, warm olive oil. Add garlic and cook about 30 seconds until fragrant. Stir in cumin, coriander, and red pepper flakes (if using). Add tomato paste and cook 1 minute. Pour in tomato sauce (or crushed tomatoes) and 1/2 cup water. Simmer 8 to 12 minutes until slightly thickened. Stir in vinegar and sugar (if using). Season with salt and black pepper until it tastes bold and lively.

Warm the chickpeas. Add chickpeas to the tomato sauce for the last 2 minutes to warm through, or warm them separately in the microwave. (Either way is fine. I like them saucy.)

Assemble the koshary. In bowls or on a platter, layer rice, then lentils, then pasta, then chickpeas and tomato sauce. Or, if you prefer the more mixed approach, gently toss the rice and lentils together first, then top with pasta, chickpeas, and sauce. Drizzle with garlic vinegar sauce to taste. Finish with a big handful of crispy onions.

Taste and adjust at the table. More vinegar sauce for brightness, more tomato sauce for comfort, more onions for crunch. This dish likes bold toppings, so go for it.