Southern Banana Pudding

Make the custard

1. Warm the milk. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm the milk until it is steaming but not boiling. Stir occasionally so it does not scorch.

2. Mix the dry ingredients. In a bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup of the sugar, cornstarch, and salt.

3. Add yolks. Whisk the egg yolks into the sugar-cornstarch mixture until smooth and thick.

4. Temper the yolks. Slowly pour about 1 cup of the hot milk into the yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Then pour the tempered yolk mixture back into the saucepan with the remaining milk.

5. Cook until thick. Cook over medium, whisking constantly, scraping the bottom and corners, until the custard thickens and starts bubbling in big, slow blorps, about 3 to 5 minutes (timing depends on your stove and pan). Once it starts bubbling, keep whisking for 30 to 60 seconds to cook out the cornstarch taste. If you like numbers, you are aiming for about 170 to 175°F, and the custard should coat the back of a spoon.

6. Finish with butter and vanilla. Remove from heat. Whisk in butter and vanilla until glossy. If you want it ultra-silky, strain through a fine-mesh sieve.

Layer the pudding

1. Build your layers. In an 8x8 or 9x9-inch dish, add a layer of vanilla wafers, then a layer of banana slices, then spoon on a layer of hot custard. Repeat, ending with custard on top. Most dishes take 2 to 3 rounds of wafers and bananas, depending on how snugly you pack the layers.

   Quick guide: Plan on using roughly three quarters of the wafers for the layers, saving the rest for topping or snacking, and divide bananas between two layers so you do not run short.

   Dish note: An 8x8 will give you taller, softer layers. A 9x9 spreads everything a little thinner and can yield slightly smaller squares, but still about 10 servings.

Make the meringue and bake

1. Whip egg whites. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a clean bowl, beat egg whites (and cream of tartar if using) until foamy, then until soft peaks form.

2. Add sugar slowly. With the mixer running, gradually add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar and beat until glossy stiff peaks form. Rub a little meringue between your fingers. It should feel smooth, not gritty.

3. Top the pudding. Spread meringue over the hot custard, making sure it touches the edges of the dish to seal it. Swirl the top for peaks.

4. Toast. Bake 8 to 12 minutes, until the meringue is lightly browned and the peaks look set.

Chill and serve

1. Cool, then refrigerate. Let the pudding cool at room temperature for about 30 minutes, then refrigerate for at least 4 hours (overnight is great) before serving. For best food safety and texture, do not leave it out longer than about 2 hours total. If your kitchen is warm, chill sooner.

2. Scoop and enjoy. Serve cold with extra crushed wafers on top if you like a little crunch with your creamy.