Crispy Fried Oysters

Make the sauce

1. In a small bowl, stir together mayonnaise, Dijon, lemon juice, pickles, hot sauce (if using), garlic, smoked paprika, and parsley (if using). Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate while you cook.

Set up for frying

1. Set a wire rack over a sheet pan. This is where the oysters will land so they stay crisp.
2. Heat 1 to 1 1/2 inches of neutral oil in a heavy skillet or Dutch oven to 350°F. Safety note: do not fill the pot more than halfway with oil, and do not leave it unattended.

Prep and dredge

1. Drain oysters well, then check quickly for any shell fragments. Gently pat dry with paper towels. Do not crush them, just get the surface moisture off. (You can discard the liquor or save it for another use.)
2. In a shallow bowl, mix flour, cornmeal, Old Bay, garlic powder, smoked paprika, 1/2 to 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and a few grinds of black pepper.
3. In a second bowl, whisk eggs with milk (or buttermilk).
4. Working with a few oysters at a time: dip in egg wash, let excess drip off, then press into the cornmeal mixture until well coated. Set on a plate or tray as you go. If you have time, let the coated oysters rest 5 minutes so the breading grips.

Fry

1. Fry oysters in batches. Do not crowd the pan. Carefully slide them into the oil and fry until deep golden and just firm at the edges, about 45 to 90 seconds per side depending on size. If your oysters are very large, they may need an extra 15 to 30 seconds. If they are small, start checking at about 45 seconds.
2. Use a spider or slotted spoon to transfer oysters to the wire rack. Immediately sprinkle with a pinch of salt while they are hot (optional if your seasoning blend runs salty).
3. Let the oil return to 350°F between batches.

Serve

1. Pile fried oysters onto a platter. Serve with lemon wedges and the chilled sauce. Finish with parsley or scallions if you want the fancy points.