French Baguette

1. Mix the dough. In a large bowl, combine the flour, yeast, sugar (if using), and water. Mix until no dry flour remains. Add the salt and mix again until a shaggy dough forms. Cover and let rest 20 minutes. This rest hydrates the flour and makes the dough easier to handle.
2. Build strength with folds (3 rounds total). With wet hands, grab one side of the dough, stretch it up, and fold it over itself. Rotate the bowl and repeat 3 more times (4 folds total). Cover and rest 20 minutes. Repeat this folding process 2 more times, resting 20 minutes between rounds. The dough should feel smoother and more elastic by the end.
3. First rise. Cover and let the dough rise at room temperature until puffy and increased by about 50 percent, 45 to 60 minutes. For more flavor, you can refrigerate it now for 8 to 24 hours. For the cold option, let it rise at room temperature for about an hour first (it does not need to double), then refrigerate. When you are ready to shape, let the dough sit out 30 to 45 minutes to take the chill off so it is easier to stretch and seal.
4. Divide and pre-shape. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter. Divide into 2 equal pieces. Gently pat each into a rough rectangle, then roll into a loose log. Cover with a towel and rest 15 minutes.
5. Shape into baguettes. Working with one piece at a time, flatten gently into a rectangle. Fold the top third down and press to seal. Fold the bottom third up and press to seal. Now roll the dough into a tight cylinder, sealing the seam with your fingertips. Roll from the center outward to lengthen into a 14 to 16 inch baguette, tapering the ends slightly. If the dough is fighting you, let it rest 5 minutes and try again.
6. Final proof (set up supports). Place the loaves seam-side up in a well-floured towel (couche-style) on a sheet pan, making folds in the towel to create “walls” so the loaves do not spread. No towel? Place the loaves seam-side up on parchment and fold extra parchment between them to create supports. To keep the parchment “walls” from flopping over, brace the outside edges with rolled kitchen towels or foil “logs.” Cover and proof until slightly puffy and the dough slowly springs back when pressed, 30 to 45 minutes.
7. Preheat the oven and set up steam. Place a rack in the middle of the oven. Put a small metal pan on a lower rack and preheat it too. Preheat the oven to 475°F for at least 30 minutes. If using a pizza stone, preheat it as well. You can start preheating during the final proof so you are not just standing around staring at dough. Safety note: some ovens warn against placing pans on the oven floor, so use the lower rack if you are not sure.
8. Transfer and score. Gently flip the baguettes seam-side down onto parchment on a baking sheet (or a peel if using a stone). Dust off any excess flour. Score each loaf with 4 to 5 diagonal slashes, slightly overlapping, about 1/4 inch deep. Keep the blade at a shallow angle, about 30 to 45°, for that classic ear.
9. Bake with steam. Slide the bread into the oven. Carefully pour 1 cup hot water into the preheated steam pan and quickly close the door. Use only metal for the steam pan (no glass, ceramic, or enamel). Keep your face and hands clear of the steam, and keep kids and pets away. Bake 10 minutes and do not open the oven during this phase.
10. Finish crisp. Reduce oven to 450°F and bake another 10 to 12 minutes until deep golden brown. For doneness, the loaves should sound hollow when tapped, or read about 205 to 210°F in the center if you have a thermometer. If you want a little extra crunch, crack the oven door open for the last 1 to 2 minutes.
11. Cool before slicing. Move baguettes to a wire rack and cool at least 45 minutes. Yes, it is torture. Yes, it matters.

Dough feel note: This is a higher-hydration dough (about 75 percent), so it will feel tacky. Before adding extra flour, try wet hands, a lightly oiled bowl, and a bench scraper to keep things moving. If it is soup-level loose and cannot hold shape after folds, add flour 1 tablespoon at a time. If it feels stiff and dry, add water 1 teaspoon at a time. Aim for a dough that is soft, stretchy, and holds a gentle mound.