Garlic Lemon Zucchini Pasta

Boil the pasta. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt it well, about 1 to 2 tablespoons kosher salt per 4 quarts of water. Cook pasta until just shy of al dente (about 1 minute less than the package suggests). Reserve 1 1/2 cups pasta water, then drain.

Sauté the zucchini. While the pasta cooks, heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add zucchini in an even layer and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Cook 4 to 6 minutes, stirring only occasionally, until the zucchini is tender with browned, crisp edges. If your pan is crowded, cook in two batches so it browns instead of steams.

Add garlic and flakes. Reduce heat to medium. Push zucchini to the edges, leaving a little space in the center. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, then add garlic and red pepper flakes. Stir for 20 to 30 seconds until fragrant. Do not let the garlic brown.

Build the sauce. Add 3/4 cup reserved pasta water to the skillet (you will use up to 1 1/2 cups total as needed). Scrape up any browned bits. Add the drained pasta and toss.

Make it silky. Turn heat to low. You want gentle warmth, not a simmer. Add Parmesan a handful at a time, tossing constantly so it melts instead of clumping. Add more pasta water as needed, a splash at a time, until the noodles look glossy and coated.

Finish bright. Turn off the heat. Add lemon zest and squeeze in about half the lemon juice. Taste and adjust with more lemon juice, salt, pepper, and Parmesan. Finish with basil or parsley if using.

Serve. Serve immediately with extra Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil. If you want crisp edges on top, add a quick handful of toasted breadcrumbs.