Hearty Cocoa Pudding

Steep the herbs. In a medium saucepan, combine the milk and cream. Warm over medium heat until steaming and tiny bubbles form around the edge. Turn off the heat, add the mint (and rosemary if using), cover, and steep for 10 to 15 minutes.

Strain and return to the pan. Pour the dairy through a fine-mesh strainer back into the saucepan. Press gently on the herbs, then discard them.

Mix the dry ingredients. In a bowl, whisk together the sugar, cocoa powder, cornstarch, and salt.

Make a smooth paste (no lumps, please). Ladle a few tablespoons of the warm infused dairy into the bowl with the dry mix and whisk until you have a smooth, shiny paste. Keep whisking in a bit more dairy, a splash at a time, until it is pourable like heavy cream.

Build the base. Pour the cocoa mixture back into the saucepan and whisk until fully smooth. Set over medium heat and whisk as it warms.

Temper the yolks. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks. Slowly whisk in about 1/2 cup of the warm cocoa mixture while whisking constantly to gently heat the yolks. Then whisk the yolk mixture back into the saucepan.

Cook until thick. Keep whisking as it heats, making sure to get into the corners of the pan (a spatula helps). Once you see a gentle bubble, reduce the heat slightly so it is more “slow blips” than a rolling boil. Cook for 60 to 90 seconds, whisking constantly, until thick and glossy. You should be able to draw a line on the back of a spoon and have it hold.

Add chocolate and vanilla. Remove from heat. Add chopped chocolate, vanilla, and butter (if using). Whisk until fully melted and smooth.

Chill or serve warm. Divide into bowls or jars (this makes about 3 cups, or 6 (1/2-cup) servings). For no-skin pudding, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface. Chill at least 2 hours for small portions, or 3 to 4 hours for a firmer, classic set. If serving warm, know it will continue to thicken as it cools.