Vietnamese Pho Noodle Soup

1. Blanch the bones for a cleaner broth. Put bones (and chuck or brisket, if using) in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse the bones and meat well, scrubbing off any gray foam bits. Rinse the pot too.

   

2. Char the aromatics. Char the onion and ginger cut-side down on a sheet pan under the broiler, or directly over a gas flame, until deeply browned in spots. This adds that signature pho depth.

   

3. Toast the spices. In a small dry skillet over medium heat, toast star anise, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, and fennel for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant. Do not walk away. They go from perfect to bitter fast.

   Optional but helpful: Toss the toasted spices into a tea infuser or tie them in cheesecloth so straining is extra easy later.

4. Simmer the broth gently. Return rinsed bones (and meat) to the clean pot. Add 10 to 12 cups water, charred onion and ginger, and toasted spices. Bring just to a simmer, then lower heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Skim foam for the first 20 to 30 minutes. A hard boil can cloud the broth and make the flavor taste less clean.

5. Cook until rich. Simmer uncovered for 3 hours. If you included chuck or brisket, start checking it around 1 1/2 hours. When it is fork-tender, remove it, cool, and slice thin for serving.

   If you have the time and want an even richer broth, you can keep the bones gently simmering for 6 to 8 hours. Add a splash of water as needed to keep bones comfortably covered.

6. Season and clean up the broth. Strain broth through a fine-mesh strainer (line with cheesecloth if you want it extra clear). Return broth to the pot. If you want it extra tidy, skim some surface fat now, or let it sit for 5 minutes so the fat rises and is easier to spoon off.

   Stir in fish sauce, sugar, and salt. Taste and adjust with more fish sauce and salt until it is savory, lightly sweet, and fragrant.

   

7. Prep noodles and toppings. Cook rice noodles according to package directions, then rinse briefly with cool water to stop cooking. Right before serving, reheat portions by dunking noodles in hot water for 10 to 20 seconds so they are steamy and ready to grab onto broth. Set out herbs, sprouts, lime, chiles, sauces, and sliced raw beef.

   

8. Assemble bowls. Bring broth to a rolling boil. Divide noodles among bowls (about 2 to 3 oz dried noodles worth per person, cooked). Add a few slices of cooked brisket (if using) and a small pile of raw thin-sliced beef (about 3 to 5 oz per bowl, depending on how meaty you are feeling).

9. Pour broth and finish. Ladle boiling-hot broth over the beef to cook it in the bowl. For food safety and the best texture, the beef must be sliced paper-thin and the broth must be truly boiling when it hits the bowl. If you prefer a no-guess option, briefly swish the raw beef slices in the simmering broth for 10 to 20 seconds, then add them to the bowls.

   Top with scallions, cilantro, and anything your heart says yes to. Serve with lime wedges and let people season their own bowls.

   

Matt’s small-but-mighty pho tips

• Keep it a simmer: Boiling clouds broth. Gentle bubbles are the move.
• Thin beef is everything: If it is too thick, it will turn chewy before it cooks through.
• Salt at the end: Broth reduces. Seasoning too early can take you past the point of no return.