Filipino Arroz Caldo

Rinse the rice. Rinse rice in a fine mesh strainer under cool water until the water runs mostly clear. This helps remove excess surface starch so the porridge tastes creamy, not gluey.

Build the flavor base. Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion and cook 3 to 4 minutes until softened. Stir in garlic and ginger and cook 1 minute, just until fragrant.

Brown the chicken (optional but worth it). Add chicken thighs and cook 2 to 3 minutes per side. You are not cooking through, just getting a little color and extra savory depth. If you are using skin-on thighs and the pot looks oily, spoon off a little rendered fat before moving on.

Simmer. Add rinsed rice, broth, fish sauce, black pepper, and kasubha or turmeric if using. Add bay leaves if using. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook uncovered 30 to 40 minutes, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom. Stir most often during the last 10 to 15 minutes as it thickens, until the rice is mostly broken down and the mixture turns porridge-like.

Shred the chicken. Remove chicken to a plate. When cool enough to handle, shred the meat and discard bones and skin if desired. The chicken should shred easily when fully cooked. Stir shredded chicken back into the pot.

Adjust consistency and seasoning. If it gets too thick, add a splash more broth or water. Taste and add more fish sauce or salt as needed. This is a tasting-as-you-go situation.

Make toasted garlic (optional topping). In a small skillet, heat oil over medium-low. Add sliced garlic and cook, stirring, until lightly golden. Pull it early because it keeps browning off heat. Drain on paper towels.

Serve and top aggressively. Ladle into bowls. Finish with scallions, toasted garlic, and calamansi (or lemon or lime) to squeeze over the top. Add egg halves if you want the full cozy package. A tiny drizzle of chili oil is also a very good idea.