Chocolate Soufflé

Prep the oven and ramekins. Heat oven to 400°F. Place a baking sheet on the middle rack while the oven preheats. Butter 4 (6-ounce) ramekins thoroughly. Add a spoonful of sugar to each and rotate to coat the sides and bottom all the way up to the rim. Tap out excess sugar. Optional but helpful: chill the prepared ramekins in the fridge while you make the batter.

Tip: Sugar on the sides gives the batter something to climb, like little traction for your soufflé.

Make the chocolate base. In a small saucepan over low heat, melt 3 tablespoons butter. Add the flour and whisk constantly for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, just to cook out the raw flour smell. Slowly whisk in the milk until smooth. Cook 1 to 2 minutes until slightly thickened.

Add the chocolate and yolks. Remove from heat. Add chopped chocolate, vanilla, and salt. Let sit about 30 seconds so the chocolate can soften, then whisk until glossy and smooth. Whisk in the egg yolks one at a time until fully incorporated. The mixture will look thick and shiny.

Whip the egg whites. In a clean, dry bowl, beat egg whites with cream of tartar (if using) on medium speed until foamy. Increase to medium-high and slowly rain in the 1/3 cup sugar. Beat until stiff, glossy peaks form. When you lift the beater, the peak should stand up with just the tiniest curl at the tip.

Do not: beat until dry and clumpy. That makes folding harder and can reduce rise.

Fold without deflating. Stir about 1/3 of the whipped whites into the chocolate base to lighten it. Then gently fold in the remaining whites in 2 additions with a rubber spatula. Scrape the bottom and fold up and over, rotating the bowl, until only a few faint white streaks remain.

Fill ramekins. Divide batter among ramekins, filling nearly to the top. Level the tops with a spatula. Run your thumb around the inside rim of each ramekin (a little groove), which helps the soufflé rise up instead of mushrooming outward.

Bake. Place ramekins on the preheated baking sheet. Bake at 400°F for 12 to 15 minutes, until puffed and set on top. Avoid opening the oven during the first 10 minutes.

Timing guide: For gooier centers, aim for 12 to 13 minutes. For a more set center, go 14 to 15.

Serve immediately. Dust with powdered sugar if you want the classic look. Bring to the table right away. Soufflés wait for no one, so hand out spoons first, then do your victory lap.