Double-Crust Apple Pie

Mix dry ingredients. In a large bowl, whisk flour, sugar, and salt.

Cut in the butter. Add cold butter cubes and cut them in with a pastry cutter (or use your fingertips quickly) until you have a mix of pea-size pieces plus some flatter shards. Those shards are your flaky layers.

Add water. Drizzle in 6 tablespoons ice water (and vinegar if using). Toss with a fork. Add more water 1 tablespoon at a time just until the dough holds together when you squeeze a handful. It should look a little shaggy, not wet.

Divide and chill. Split into 2 discs, wrap, and refrigerate at least 1 hour (or up to 3 days).

Heat the oven. Set oven to 425°F. Place a rack in the lower third. Put a rimmed baking sheet on the rack to preheat.

Toss apples. In a large bowl, combine apples, both sugars, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger (if using), salt, cornstarch, and flour. Toss very well.

Stir in vanilla last. Add the vanilla and give it one more thorough toss.

Roll the bottom crust. On a lightly floured counter, roll one dough disc to a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie dish, letting the dough overhang slightly. Chill the dish while you roll the top crust.

Roll the top crust. Roll the second disc to about 12 inches. You can keep it solid or cut vents or strips for a lattice.

Fill. Pile apples into the chilled bottom crust, mounding slightly in the center. Dot with 2 tablespoons butter pieces.

Top and seal. Lay on the top crust. Trim excess so you have about 1 inch overhang. Fold top and bottom overhang under themselves, then crimp.

Vent. If using a solid top, cut 5 to 6 slits so steam can escape.

Egg wash. Whisk egg with milk. Brush over the top crust and sprinkle with sugar.

Bake hot, then finish. Place the pie on the preheated baking sheet. Bake at 425°F for 20 minutes, then reduce to 375°F and bake 40 to 50 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden and the filling is bubbling through the vents.

Doneness cues: The bubbling should look thick and slow in the center, not thin and watery. If you like a number, aim for about 200°F in the center of the filling.

If your apples are sliced thicker than 1/4 inch, expect to add bake time. Keep going until the center is bubbling like it means it.

Protect the top and edges if needed. If the rim browns too quickly, tent just the edges with foil. If the top is getting too dark before the center is bubbling, lay a loose sheet of foil over the whole pie for the remaining bake time.

Cool completely. Cool at least 3 hours before slicing so the filling sets. I know. It's rude. But it works.