Spicy Arrabbiata Sauce

Warm the oil, then bloom the spice. Set a large skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil. When it shimmers, add the red pepper flakes and stir for about 15 seconds.

Cook the garlic gently. Add the sliced garlic. Stir constantly for 30 to 60 seconds until fragrant and just starting to turn pale golden. If the garlic is browning fast, lower the heat. Bitter garlic will bully the whole sauce.

Add tomatoes and break them up. Carefully pour in the whole tomatoes and their juices. They may splatter when they hit the hot oil, so go slow. Use a spoon to break them into smaller chunks. Stir well to pull up any flavorful bits in the pan.

Simmer quickly. Bring to a lively simmer, then reduce to medium-low. Simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened and glossy. You are looking for that moment when it starts to coat the back of a spoon, but still tastes bright.

Choose your texture, then season. For chunky sauce, leave it as is. For a looser, more even sauce, crush a few tomato pieces against the side of the pan with your spoon. For smooth sauce, use an immersion blender right in the pan for 5 to 10 seconds. Stir in the salt and optional black pepper. Taste. If you want extra pop, add the red wine vinegar. If the tomatoes taste sharp, a tiny pinch of sugar or a small knob of butter can round it out.

Serve. Toss with hot pasta or spoon over chicken, shrimp, or roasted veggies. If tossing with pasta, add a splash of pasta water (or water) to help the sauce cling. If you are finishing with salty cheese, taste first and add extra salt only if needed. Finish with parsley or basil and a shower of Parmesan or Pecorino. Crisp edges on garlic bread are strongly encouraged.